Persian Tahchin

Saffron Rice Cake with Chicken and Barberries

Tachin is a showstopping Persian baked rice cake with a golden, crackling crust and tender saffron-scented rice layered around juicy shredded chicken. It is finished with a sweet-tart barberry topping and slivered pistachios.

Persian Tahchin

INGREDIENTS

For the Chicken

• 2¾ pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs and legs

• 1 tablespoon neutral oil

• 2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced

• 1½ teaspoons salt

• 1 cinnamon stick

• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• 1 teaspoon ground cardamom

For the Rice

• 3 cups basmati rice, rinsed and soaked in cold water for at least 30 minutes

• 2 tablespoons salt, for the parboiling water

• 1 cup full-fat Greek yogurt

• 2 tablespoons neutral oil

• 1 large egg

• 2 large egg yolks

• ¼ teaspoon saffron threads, finely crushed

• 7 tablespoons hot water

• 1 teaspoon salt

• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Barberry Topping

• ½ cup dried barberries

• 2 teaspoons granulated sugar

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

For Assembly

• 3 tablespoons neutral oil, plus more if needed

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

• Heavy-duty aluminum foil, for covering

• Slivered pistachios, for garnish

METHOD

Cook the Chicken

1. Heat 1 tablespoon of neutral oil in a large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the chicken pieces skin-side down and sear until the skin is deep golden brown, about 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the chicken and set aside.

2. To the same pot, add the sliced onions and 1½ teaspoons of salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes.

3. Return the chicken to the pot along with the cinnamon stick, black pepper, and cardamom. Add enough water to cover and bring to a boil. Using a fine-mesh strainer or spoon, skim off any foam or impurities that rise to the surface.

4. Once the stock is clear, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the chicken is fully cooked and tender, 30 to 45 minutes depending on the size of the pieces.

5. Transfer the cooked chicken to a plate and set aside to cool. Discard or reserve the remaining liquid for another use.

Prepare the Rice

6. Place the crushed saffron in a small bowl and pour in the 7 tablespoons of hot water. Let steep for at least 15 minutes.

7. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add 2 tablespoons of salt — the water should taste pleasantly salty, similar to pasta water. Drain the soaked rice and add it to the boiling water. Cook uncovered, stirring once or twice, for 5 to 7 minutes, until the grains are tender on the outside but still have a firm, slightly chalky center when bitten. Do not let the rice cook through completely.

8. Drain the rice immediately in a fine-mesh colander and rinse thoroughly under cold running water until the rice feels cool to the touch. This stops the cooking and removes excess surface starch. Set aside to drain.

9. In a large bowl, whisk together the Greek yogurt, 2 tablespoons of neutral oil, egg, egg yolks, saffron water, 1 teaspoon of salt, and black pepper until smooth and well combined.

10. Add the drained parboiled rice to the yogurt mixture and fold gently until every grain is evenly coated. Do not return the rice to the pot — proceed directly to assembly.

Make the Barberry Topping

11. In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter with the sugar, stirring until combined. Add the barberries and cook, stirring gently, until the berries have plumped and are heated through, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Assemble and Bake

12. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Shred the cooled chicken into thick strips, discarding the skin and bones.

13. Coat the bottom and sides of a 2-quart (approximately 11×7-inch) Pyrex baking dish very generously with the 3 tablespoons of neutral oil. Glass does not release food as readily as nonstick, so do not skimp — a thorough, even coating on all surfaces is essential for a clean flip.

14. Spread two-thirds of the rice mixture evenly across the bottom and up the sides of the dish to form a shell. Arrange the shredded chicken in an even layer, then cover with the remaining rice mixture, pressing gently to seal.

15. Dot the top of the rice evenly with the tablespoon of butter cubes.

16. Tear off a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil large enough to extend 2 to 3 inches beyond the rim of the dish on all sides. Press it firmly over the top of the dish and crimp it tightly around the entire rim, folding as you go to create a fully sealed cover with no gaps.

17. Place the covered dish in the fully preheated oven — do not put a cold Pyrex dish into a cold oven and heat them together, as the sudden temperature change can cause cracking. Bake covered for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and bake uncovered for an additional 30 minutes, until the edges are golden and the top is set.

18. Remove from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes. Do not place the hot dish directly on a cold surface; set it on a folded kitchen towel or a wooden cutting board to protect against thermal shock. Run a thin spatula carefully around all four edges to loosen the tachin from the sides of the dish.

19. Place a large, sturdy serving platter face-down over the baking dish. Gripping the dish and the platter firmly together — kitchen towels over the dish will help with the heat — flip the tachin in one confident, decisive motion onto the platter.

20. Spoon the barberry topping over the top and finish with a generous scattering of slivered pistachios. Serve immediately.